Gems


H O W   T O   C A R E    F O R   J E W E L R Y   W I T H   G E M S T O N E S


 

Any jewelry needs proper care.

If you don't clean the piece for a long time, the dirt that accumulates in the joint leads to the loosening of the stone.


  Do not use hard objects, aggressive chemicals or abrasives for these purposes.

Each stone requires a specific approach.

Try to use only professional products at home.

Hagerty has great products for cleaning gemstones and precious metals.

 

 

 

What not to do when cleaning jewelry with gemstones

What is suitable for metals can easily ruin the gems. For example, when in contact with concentrated acids or alkalis, they may become dull and change color. Abrasive substances leave micro-scratches on the polished surface, on which dirt is subsequently accumulated.

 

W h e n   c l e a r i n g   s t o n e s,  y o u   c a n n o t   u s e:


♦ chalk;
♦ washing powder;
♦ toothpaste;
♦ salt;
♦ Citric acid;
♦ sodium bicarbonate;
♦ solvents;
♦ hydrogen peroxide;
♦ bleaches.


It is also forbidden to submerge jewelry in hot water and boil it like metal items. Most minerals are very sensitive to heat, so it's not worth the risk. Be careful when working with multi-stone jewelry. Make sure the method you choose is suitable for the different types of inserts. If they are fixed with glue, have in mind that abundant wetting will weaken the fixation.


T h e   m o s t   g e n t l e   w a y   i s   d r y   c l e a n i n g.

Suitable for all jewelry as it is carried out without the use of chemicals, water and rough tools. The pieces are simply polished with felt or suede. The fabric removes the top plate and the shine appears. Special polishing sprays will help to achieve a wonderful result. This method is suitable if the pollution is insignificant, and also as a final step in general cleaning.

Under the influence of air and chemicals, jewelry with stones becomes covered with plaque and changes color. In this case, washing can help.

Place the items in a soap solution (Fairy works well) at 30-40°C. Wait a quarter of an hour, then be sure to rinse them with clean water and dry with a flannel cloth. Do not soak for a long time, as water will penetrate the pores of the stones and damage the structure, also weakening the fixation.

Some types of inserts are quite delicate and require more careful handling, but more on that topic later.
You cannot remove dirt from under the stone with a needle, as this can create looseness in the fixation and scratch the stone itself. Dip a piece of cotton in glycerin, alcohol, or cologne and rub the area. Try not to drop the jewelry, as if it falls and hits a hard surface, the stone can crack and break.


It is also advisable to work with cotton, nitrile or latex gloves. To be safe, place small items in a sieve so they don't accidentally slip out of your hands.


 

 

 

Ultrasonic bath: pros and cons

Jewelers often use this device. Ultrasonic cleaning is a fast and high-quality procedure that can remove any dirt, even in hard-to-reach places like the clasp, fixing base, small chain links. The UV bath consists of a container with a special liquid, where the article is placed and the device is turned on, the generator creates electrical vibrations, which are converted into mechanical ones, small bubbles appear, these reach the piece and the dirt is accumulated in the bottom.
This cleaning method removes oil films, greasy stains, traces of corrosion and limescale. However, it is only suitable for non-porous stones as it can lead to cracking.

Using a UV bath is recommended for cleaning jewelry with complex shapes and many small stones.
But it cannot be used for jewelry with pearls, turquoise, jade, amber, opal, citrine, emerald.

 

Rules for cleaning certain categories of stones


Before you start cleaning jewelry, familiarize yourself with the characteristics of each mineral. Some gems are only suitable for dry cleaning, and contact with water is highly unrecommended. If you care for your jewelry and want it to last as long as possible, be sure to pay attention to the characteristics of each one of them.

 

Diamond


Contrary to popular belief, a diamond can be damaged. Although it is indeed the hardest natural material, it can break out of impact. Be careful not to drop diamond jewelry while cleaning. The gem is stained with prolonged contact with water, so the immersion should last only a short time. To enhance the effect, you can add ammonia to the soap solution at the rate of 2 drops per glass of water. Rinse the product well under running water and clean the stone with a soft, dry cloth.


Emerald


This expensive mineral has a porous structure, so it is quite capricious. After cutting, to increase its strength, it is treated with oil. The solution penetrates into microcracks, acting as a protective layer, in the process of cleaning it is important not to remove it. Benzine and ammonia are prohibited. Try dry cleaning. If that doesn't help, prepare a not concentrated solution of baby soap with water and soak the jewelry for 5 minutes. Rub gently with cotton or flannel.


Amethyst, citrine, jadeite


The most suitable remedy is soap, and the tools are velvet and a soft brush. Make sure the water is never hot. Ammonia is prohibited. Although ammonia water is often used to clean gold, amethyst earrings will permanently lose their original appearance. This rule also applies to all types of quartz.


Ruby


Hard enough, so if necessary, you can use a brush. Be sure to rinse the stone under running water so that no whitish stains remain.


Grenade


Equally intolerant of high and low temperatures. When preparing a "bath", make sure that the water is neither cold nor hot. It is better not to use a brush, but microfiber. Do not dry the granade with a hairdryer or in the sun!


Pearl


Pearls are quite sensitive. They are easily smudged, stained and darkened. A necklace made of large pearls is especially demanding in care, because it tarnishes faster. You can restore the pearl's shine by wiping periodically with a cloth soaked in soapy suds and then rinsing. Do not soak for too long, as the beads will lose their attractiveness. Olive oil will help remove stains, you can remove excess fat with potato starch.


Onyx


The stone is porous, so it absorbs moisture. Don't wet too much. Try to remove the dirty coating with a dry cloth and only slightly dampen it if necessary. Do not use soap or liquid detergent or metal polish. After cleaning, dry the onyx.


Turquoise


The mineral does not like moisture. The liquid seeps into its pores and spoils the color. Alcohol is also contraindicated. You can clean these jewelry only in a dry way. A layer of fat leads to the formation of a greenish coating. Clean parts with a woolen cloth after each use to avoid contamination. Turquoise is sensitive to acids and alkalis. Apply wax to add shine.


Spinel


If the pieces are in gold or platinum (but not silver!), soak them in a solution of washing powder and water. The hardness of the stone is above 5 on the Mohs scale, so this method will not harm it. Ultrasonic treatment is permissible if there are no inclusions in the material structure.


Opal


Fragile as glass, it needs protection. It can crack with sudden changes in temperature and low humidity, as it contains up to 6% water. Humidity is not terrible for whole opals. However, most often in jewelry there are doublets (natural stone + glued black substrate) and triplets (there is a third layer of glass or quartz). These cannot be submerged in water, but can be cleaned with a damp cloth. Ultrasonic cleaning can cause cracking.


Amber


Material of organic origin, fossilized resin. Easily covered with scratches, so the use of abrasives is excluded. Wipe the amber rings with a suede cloth to remove a layer of grease and dust. Avoid contact with alcohol, as white spots may appear. If dirt gets into the bead holes, remove them from the string, soak in soapy water and scrub with a toothbrush.


Tourmaline


It is washed in a softly concentrated solution of liquid soap. Dilute a tablespoon of detergent in 100 ml of water. Moisten a cotton pad and rub.

alexandrite


It is easy to clean by soaking it in a shampoo solution for a few minutes. It is advisable to wash earrings with alexandrite in boiled or distilled water so that there is no limescale and stains.


artificial stones


We are talking about lab-grown stones, imitating the natural ones. The most common of these is cubic zirconia. It is not as capricious as natural stone and resists cleaning along with metal. Small spots are rubbed with soapy water and a soft brush. Severe polution is removed by soaking for up to three hours. Cubic zirconia can be kept in water with ammonia at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 100 ml. A baking soda solution is also suitable (2 tablespoons per 200 ml of water).

Enamel will stain when exposed to acids. Water and a few drops of ammonium hydroxide will help restore a pleasant shine.

When cleaning Swarovski crystals, it is important not to erase the rhodium or gold plating. As with natural stones, proceed with care. Regular rubbing with suede is sufficient. If necessary, scrub the crystals with a soapy toothbrush.


We strongly advise you to not experiment, as an expensive jewel can permanently change its appearance. Use special care products.


Help from a professional


At home, it is often impossible to clean hard-to-reach places. Dirt can build up on the engraving, under the teeth of the cast, at the place of application of the sample and the clasp. Jewellery has the tools to penetrate these places. You should be especially careful with expensive and old jewelry, family heirlooms, if you don't want to demage them.

For preventive purposes, any expensive jewelry should be handed over to professionals once a year.


 

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